Key answer upfront
Alex Honnold completed the first known free solo ascent of El Capitan on June 3, 2017 via the Freerider route (about 3,000 feet / 914 m). While Alex is a man, he is widely recognized as the first person to free solo El Cap. As of now, there has not been a verified, widely recognized first woman to free solo El Capitan. This article explains the notable free solos by women on El Capitan, the definition and risks of free soloing, and how routes and records are verified in big wall climbing.
What it means to free solo a big wall like El Capitan
Free soloing means climbing without a rope or protective gear. On big walls like El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, the consequences of a mistake are severe, making free soloing exceptionally rare and controversial. Most climbers and historians treat verified free solos on El Capitan as extraordinary events requiring robust evidence, including on-video documentation from multiple angles and testimonies from other climbers who were present.
Notable women’s free solos and significant ascents on El Capitan
While a widely recognized, independently verified first woman to free solo El Capitan has not been formally documented, several female climbers have completed difficult El Capitan routes and free solos elsewhere. The following table summarizes notable climbs and what they represent in the context of women’s big wall and free solo climbing.
| Climber | Route or Ascent | Date | Type | Verification Context |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alex Honnold | Freerider (VI, 5.13a) | June 3, 2017 | Free solo | Widely documented with multiple cameras; consensus in climbing media and historians |
| Emily Harrington | Multiple El Capitan routes including The Nose; Free solos of shorter routes or sport climbs | 2010s–2020s | Big wall/Free solo attempts | Known for fast ascents and rope solos; specific free solo of El Capitan not widely verified |
| Ashima Shiraishi | Various sport and boulder problems, El Capitan areas | 2010s–2020sSport/boulder | El Cap free solo not documented as first or verified | |
| Steph Davis | Big wall ascents on El Capitan; BASE jumping and rope solos of shorter lines | 1990s–2010s | Big wall/Adventure | Not a verified free solo of El Capitan’s classic big wall routes |
| Hillary Gerardi (and other women in mixed teams) | Participation on major El Capitan routes | Various | Big wall | Contributed to representation; free solo of El Capitan not confirmed |
Why there is no broadly accepted first woman to free solo El Capitan
To claim a verified first free solo of El Capitan by a woman, a community of climbers, photographers, and historians generally expects: on video evidence showing the entire route, a recognized beta source describing the climb beforehand, testimony from at least one third-party witness, and publication or wide disclosure to the climbing community. As of 2024, no woman has publicly presented that level of evidence for a full free solo of El Capitan’s classic routes such as The Nose or Freerider. This does not eliminate the possibility that a woman has done it privately, but public verification ensures safety and accountability in a high-risk undertaking.
How El Capitan free solos are verified in practice
In big wall climbing, verification relies on multiple, consistent sources. Photographic and video evidence, witness statements, previous route beta, and post-ascent interviews with reputable publications help establish credibility. Because El Capitan routes are long, committing, and remote, unverified claims are treated skeptically by the community. This cautious approach protects climbers and preserves the integrity of historic first ascents and significant free solos, whether by men or women.
High-level context on free soloing El Capitan today
- Free soloing El Capitan takes advanced big wall skills, endurance, and risk management, not just strong roped climbing ability.
- Weather, rock quality, and route choice dramatically affect difficulty and danger on any given day.
- Most elite climbers who free solo big walls do so after years of incremental exposure and team support.
- Women remain underrepresented in big wall and free solo disciplines, but participation and achievements are increasing.
Comparison: first free solo of El Capitan milestones by gender
| Milestone | Climber | Date | Route | Gender |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| First free solo of El Capitan | Alex Honnold | June 3, 2017 | Freerider | Male |
| First woman to free solo El Capitan (verified) | Not yet widely recognized | N/A | N/A | Female |
| First woman to free climb El Capitan (rope) | Emily Harrington (via The Nose) | 2018 | The Nose | Female |
| First woman to free solos significant big wall routes (non El Cap) | Various (e.g., Steph Davis, Iker Pou, others) | 2000s–2020s | Regional big wall and sport routes | Female |
Definitions and context for readers new to climbing terminology
- Free solo: Climbing without a rope; a fall usually results in serious injury or death.
- Big wall: Multi-pitch climbing on large rock faces, often requiring portaledges, hauling, and multiple days.
- Beta: Information about a route, including holds, sequence, and cruxes, used to plan a climb.
- First ascent (FA): The initial documented climb of a new route.
- Verified ascent: A climb confirmed by evidence and community consensus to ensure accuracy and safety.
Remaining challenges for women in big wall and free solo climbing
Even as women push standards in sport and trad climbing, big wall free solos remain an extreme frontier. Few women have the sustained strength, route-finding experience, and exposure to high consequence terrain required. Social factors, sponsorship disparities, and access to mentorship also play a role. Recognizing women’s achievements in big wall rope climbing—such as fast ascents of The Nose—while acknowledging the unmatched risks of free soloing helps maintain accurate narratives about progress and representation.
Status and outlook
As of now, there is no broadly accepted record of a first woman to free solo El Capitan. Future claims will depend on transparent evidence, community scrutiny, and the judgment of established climbing historians and media. What is clear is that women’s contributions to El Capitan climbing are growing, with more rope teams, speed records, and bold trad lines being completed. Whether and when a woman free solos El Capitan, and how that ascent is verified, will be shaped by technology, safety practices, and the evolving culture of big wall climbing.
FAQ
Reader questions
Has any woman free soloed El Capitan?
No widely recognized, independently verified free solo of El Capitan by a woman has been documented as of 2024. Claims may exist privately but do not meet the community’s verification standards.
Who was the first person to free solo El Capitan?
Alex Honnold completed the first widely verified free solo of El Capitan on June 3, 2017 via the Freerider route.
What counts as verification for a big wall free solo?
Typically: on-video evidence, third-party witnesses, prior route beta, and disclosure to recognized climbing media or historians. Context such as weather, approach, and approach is also considered.
How does a rope free solo differ from a free solo?
A rope free solo is a term sometimes used for climbing with a rope but minimal protection (e.g., soloing with a sling or minimal gear). A true free solo has no rope or protection; the terms are often clarified in reports to distinguish risk levels.
Why does verification matter for free solos on El Capitan?
Because consequences are extremely high and routes are long and complex, verification helps ensure climber safety, maintain credibility, and provide an accurate historical record for the climbing community.
Are women closing the gap in big wall and free solo climbing?
Yes—more women are completing big wall rope routes, training for endurance, and attempting bold lines. Representation and participation are increasing, though free soloing anywhere, including El Capitan, remains rare and exceptionally high risk.